Herringbone Tile Calculator
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Planning a herringbone floor or wall? This presets the calculator to a herringbone layout, shows it to scale, and counts the tiles, boxes and cut pieces you need - including the extra waste this pattern's angled edges create.
Pick a tile, pattern and colour below - the floor updates instantly.
Tiles to buy (incl. extra)
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Boxes needed
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💡 Buy 1–2 boxes extra for cuts and breakage.
Total area: - · Tiles to cut (estimate): - · Whole tiles (uncut): -
⚠️ Start tiling from the center - a wall start leaves ugly slivers.
How much extra to order for herringbone
Herringbone is one of the most wasteful layouts. Every tile along the walls is cut at 45°, and the offcuts are often unusable, so order about 15% extra - closer to 20% for a small or busy-shaped room. The calculator defaults to 10%; bump the waste field up before you buy.
Cutting & setting out
Rectangular tiles (planks) laid at 45° or 90° give the classic zigzag. It is a slower, more precise install than a straight grid: every perimeter tile needs an angled cut, so a wet saw and careful setting-out from the centre line pay off. Dry-lay a few rows first to check your angle and starting point.
Where herringbone works best
- Entryways, hallways and mudrooms, where the arrows lead the eye down the space
- Feature walls and fireplace surrounds
- Bathrooms and kitchens using plank or subway-shaped tiles
Frequently asked questions
- How much extra tile do I need for herringbone?
- Order around 15% extra for a herringbone floor, and up to 20% for small or irregular rooms. The 45° perimeter cuts waste more than a straight grid (usually ~10%), because the triangular offcuts often can't be reused.
- What size tiles work best for herringbone?
- Rectangular tiles - planks, subway or 2:1 formats - give the strongest herringbone. A 2:1 ratio (e.g. 4×8 or 6×12 in) interlocks cleanly; square tiles can't make a true herringbone.
- Is herringbone harder to install than a grid?
- Yes. Every perimeter tile is cut at an angle and the pattern must be set out carefully from a centre line, so it takes longer and needs a wet saw. Many DIYers dry-lay the first rows before spreading adhesive.